CHEAP EATS: WHERE TO EAT FOR LESS
THAN $13 AN ENTREE
The pita and spice are so nice at Larsa's
By Joe Gray
Tribune staff reporter
Published August 11, 2005
First impressions: On a fast-moving stretch of Dempster Street
in Skokie that's dotted with ethnic restaurants, it's easy to
miss Larsa's--or so we'd like to think since we did and had to
double back. Jammed into the kind of business strip with one
car lane feeding off the main street, the exterior is not much
to look at. Inside, this Assyrian family restaurant is calming
with white walls, tile floors, white tablecloth-topped (then
plastic-protected) tables, brass lighting fixtures, all dominated
by a mural of an ancient Assyrian feast.
On the plate: The Middle Eastern big three of hummus, tabbouleh
and baba ghanoush tops the appetizer list confidently. The menu
trucks along through familiar territory: grape leaves, manna
eash (pita topped with sesame seeds, olive oil and spices, similar
to zahtar bread), falafel and, among entrees, kibbee, shawirma
and several types of kebabs. Homemade lentil soup with rice that's
flavored with curry and dill comes with all entrees. Some of
those entrees also are served with a house-made stew--the flavors
of which change from day to day, but include a tomato-based version,
one with okra and another with white beans--for pouring over
your rice. The pita bread that is used for sandwiches (laffah)
and served with appetizers is made on-site; it's served burn-your-fingers
hot.
At your service: Welcoming and accommodating best describe
the servers. During one visit, our playful server suggested "you
can get your fingers dirty--it's Cornish," when she spied
one of us laboriously cutting up the Cornish.
Second helpings: The Cornish hen--eaten with fingers or not--was
a whole hen, split down the back, charbroiled and served open
on a bed of tender basmati rice. Flavored with citrus, the skin
was crisp, the meat tender. Hummus, tabbouleh and baba ghanoush
were all winners. The creamy hummus was rich with tahini and
topped with olive oil plus three chickpeas. The tabbouleh tasted
like it had been made just that instant; refreshing with parsley,
not too much cracked wheat and just the right bright hint of
lemon. The baba ghanoush was very smoky (too smoky for some tasters,
though I loved it). The kifta kebab pita featured ground chuck,
onions, parsley and spices formed into a log, skewered then roasted,
creating a satisfying sandwich of complex flavors. The falafel
platter featured four balls (crisp outside with a moist, tender
and heady interior) and a lettuce-and-tomato salad served with
a smooth, garlic-spiked tahini dressing. It's a small portion
compared to the other oversized entrees, but good to share or
combine with a couple appetizers. The chicken kebab yielded the
most succulent bird we've tried in a long time, tasting of a
citrusy marinade.
Take a pass: The Mediterranean salad of cucumbers, tomatoes
and onions was bathed in a delicious dressing spiked with herbs,
but until better summer tomatoes are available, we'd order the
jajeek (a tangy yogurt and cucumber salad) instead.
Extras: Noteworthy among beverages is the shanina, a blend
of yogurt and water that is light in texture, tangy and a bit
salty. It complements the food very well, especially the kifta
kebab and beef shawirma. BYOB.
Prices: Appetizers, $1.95-$4.95; salad and sandwiches, $1.75-$4.95;
main courses, $5.95-$10.95; side dishes, 75 cents-$1.50; desserts,
$1.75-$2.50; drinks, $1-$1.75.
Larsa's Fine Mediterranean Cuisine
(3 forks)
3724 W. Dempster St., Skokie 847-679-3663
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tue.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.,
1-9 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: A, DC, DS, M, V
Delivery: No
Noise: Hushed
Other: Wheelchair accessible, no smoking, parking in lot to
the east
NEARBY
Ethnic at home: Peyvand Foods, next door to Larsa's, specializes
in kosher, Middle Eastern and Asian foodstuffs. 847- 675-1909.
An artful walk: Work up an appetite viewing more than 72 large-scale
outdoor sculptures along a two-mile path for walking, biking
or jogging in the Skokie Northshore Sculpture Park. Along McCormick
Boulevard between Dempster Street and Touhy Avenue. For details
and map, go to sculpturepark.org.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don't miss it; 3 forks, one of the best;
2 forks; very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members;
meals are paid for by the Tribune.
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