|
|
<
Christians of Iraq
Contact Home Only this link has access to all News articles
Updated list of Opression and Murders of the Assyrians in Iraq Not reported by the International Press
----
Ancient ruins inspire hope in U.S. forces in Iraq Pre-Christian city of Hatra a source of awe in war-torn land
By SEAN COCKERHAM
The News Tribune
October 18, 06HATRA, IRAQ - Remains of the giant columns, temples and fortifications of the 2,600-year-old city of Hatra tower over the Iraq desert.
This was a major city along the Silk Road. Hatra sent caravans of traders throughout the Middle East with spices, woodwork and gems. It was a tolerant center of diverse religions that twice drove back Roman invaders.
Now the 1st Battalion of the 37th Field Artillery Regiment from Fort Lewis does daily combat patrols in the area, and religious tolerance is hard to come by. A month ago, a suicide car bomber killed several people in the neighboring settlement of al-Hatra.
But the U.S. soldiers draw inspiration from the beautiful ruins, hoping someday they can be a world-renowned center of tourism.
'If this thing can last ..."
"It's remarkable that it's still standing in a place of pretty much chaos," said Capt. Alex Aquino, 26, who lived in Tacoma before the Stryker brigade deployed in July. "It's like there is some hope, if this thing can last after all the stuff that has happened in Iraq."
The places where Fort Lewis and other U.S. soldiers are fighting in Iraq are exceptionally rich in history. Cities might be garbage-strewn battle zones now, but this is still Mesopotamia, cradle of civilization.
"It kind of makes you feel like you are not just in a counterinsurgency fight but something real, with some historic significance," said Lt. Col. Ken Kamper of DuPont, commander of the artillery unit.
The Mosul area, where most Fort Lewis soldiers in Iraq are stationed, was the capital of the powerful Assyrian empire 700 years before the birth of Christ. Jonah, the biblical figure fabled for being swallowed by a whale, is said to be entombed in a mosque in a dangerous part of Mosul.
There's an abandoned Christian monastery dating from sometime before 595 on Forward Operating Base Marez, where Fort Lewis soldiers in Mosul live. The chaplain gives tours.
Academics say the Hatra site, 68 miles southwest of Mosul, is arguably the most spectacular archaeological site in Iraq. It is one of two places in the country to be designated by the United Nations as a World Heritage Site. The other is the city of Ashur, the capital of ancient Assyria.
Hatra, built mostly of limestone and gypsum, blends Greek, Roman and Arab architecture. Remains of public baths, statues and defensive towers give a feel for its former grandeur.
It's not known how much more remains under the ground. About 70 percent of the ancient city's 750 acres have yet to be excavated.
Staff Sgt. Adam Armstrong, 30, of Puyallup had his re-enlistment ceremony at Hatra. Inscriptions within the ruins are mostly in Aramaic, the language Christ spoke.
"I'm a Christian, and this is over 2,000 years old," Armstrong said. "Knowing Christ possibly could have walked on these grounds is phenomenal."
Hollywood took note of the ruins in the early 1970s. Hatra is featured in the opening scene of "The Exorcist" as the site where a priest discovers a relic foreshadowing that he soon will face evil.
The ruins also are a testament to Saddam Hussein's staggering ego. Saddam ordered that the bricks used in renovating the historic site in the 1990s had to be carved with his initials.
The new era of violence in Iraq has affected the ruins. A U.N. archeological team investigated the site and found looters had damaged two features after the U.S. invasion in 2003. The archaeologists also complained the United States was threatening the stability of the buildings through the destruction of stockpiles from a nearby Iraqi ammo dump.
"These delicate and sensitive remains are vulnerable to permanent and irreparable damage owing to the detonation of recovered ordnance nearby," Jane Waldbaum, president of the Archaeological Institute of America, wrote the U.S. government in 2004.
The blasts were reduced, and the U.S. and Iraqi forces have now secured relative calm in the area, although insurgents operate not far away.
Archaeologists still find Hatra too dangerous for excavations, and few visitors come to the site.
"If they fix it, we can have tourists and stuff like the way we used to have," said Mahamed Hamed Al Ahmade, an Iraqi policeman who helps guard the Hatra Ruins. "Before the (Saddam) regime fell, people used to come from all over the world."
Local sheiks have asked the Fort Lewis soldiers to help protect the Hatra site. Kamper's artillery battalion is able to do a lot of reconstruction work in this rural region because it is more stable than Mosul or Baghdad.
The Stryker brigade troops said they want to add Hatra protection to the list, although a bid for a security fence came in too high at $700,000. The unit is working on finding other ways to make sure the site is secure.
Sean Cockerham can be reached at seancockerham@hotmail.com.
![]()